In the heart of downtown Athens, Transmetropolitan does little to make itself known to passersby.

Beneath an inconspicuous chrome sign, a small patio entrance is the only clue that alerts visitors to the fact that Transmetropolitan is an Italian eatery.

Though the entrance is understated, the atmosphere that greets a hungry guest is anything but.ELoud punk-rock blares unapologetically, creating a cacophony of sounds as the cooks bang away in the open kitchen while diners converse loudly over pizza and PBR.

Customers line up to place their orders at the counter and then find seating in an immense two-story space.

Transmetropolitan is decorated with black and white family photos and memorabilia adorning exposed brick walls, but none of the stereotypical Italian kitsch.

At first glance, the menu at Transmetropolitan is mouth-watering.

Voracious meat eaters can pig out on a hefty slice of Hungry Sasquatch Pizza with five varieties of Italian meat and extra cheese, while cautious health nuts can munch on blackened tofu over mixed greens.

Vegetarian-friendly appetizers and panini sandwiches are the best bet — as far as food quality goes.

The portabello stuffed with vegan pesto is amazing and the mozzarella caprese is worth a second trip. Paninis come with anything from sautZed zucchini to tasty Italian prosciutto with cheese piled between thick slabs of focaccia bread.

Considering the massive portions, prices are surprisingly affordable, especially the gargantuan-sized slices of pizza ($3) or the “Build Your Own Pasta Bowl” with pasta smothered in one of eight sauces ($5).

While the menu is impressive and the ambiance is pleasing, Transmetropolitan has several serious flaws.

The roasted potatoes that accompany the panini are so burnt that they’re inedible, and unlucky patrons might discover chunks of old food dried on the silverware.

The food that’s prepared doesn’t taste or look as good as the menu makes it sound. Additionally, service is beyond bad.

It takes the staff nearly an hour to prepare a pizza, and when I inquired about why appetizers arrive even later than the entrees, the waitress growled that one must request for an appetizer to be sent out before the entree!

Who knew?

Overall, the idea behind Transmetropolitan is a solid one — good menu, great atmosphere — but the food needs fine-tuning almost as badly as some of the servers need to learn manners.